We went ashore at Danco Island where a British station was before it was torn down a few years ago. The island was composed of millions of rocks—gray, brown, beige—covering the landscape. Our landing was more treacherous than the previous ones because we had to walk through ten to fifteen feet of frigid, moving water from the zodiac to the shore. Fortunately, the water was extremely clear so we could see where to step on the uneven rocks. I felt wobbly as I picked my way over the slippery rocks to reach a more level area and was afraid that I would slide into the water.
Walking through the crisp, pure air was invigorating. Gentoo penguins stood at attention—surveying us carefully—probably wondering why we were invading their territory. Then they would waddle and hop amongst the piles of rocks. Some rookeries were high above us which caused the penguins to make long, difficult journeys to the sea for food. We did not even attempt to climb the hill because it was so high, but the penguins were able to make it to the top.
We were surprised to see four week old chicks that had been placed by a parent inside the remaining foundation of an old building. The chicks should have been much older and larger by February so they would not be able to survive the harsh winter. A skua, which feasts on penguin eggs and chicks, was waiting nearby to get to the chicks. It was sad to think of their lives ending like that, but that is part of the cycle of life.
The beauty of that area was breathtaking. A brilliant blue sky was painted with feathery white clouds. Mountains enclosed the harbor while stretching to the sky—snow covered rounded ones and sharp gray jagged ones with a sprinkling of powdery snow. Pointed white and blue icebergs rocked in the blue water. Gray mountains looked like someone had dropped powdered sugar on them. Massive glaciers tumbled down the mountains to the water’s edge forming their own caverns and canyons. Holes were left when gigantic chunks broke off and displayed brilliant blue lines. Older, brown ice held evidence of years and years of etching from the rocky slopes producing a geologist’s delight.
During the afternoon, our ship crawled through the blue white capped waters of a more open area. Both sides of the ship had startling views stretching as far as we could see. Icebergs had thinned out so most of them were close to the icy shores. Part of the mountains looked like they had been covered with white, creamy frosting with soft peaks on top. What a delightful sight. A rocky mountain slathered like a sundae with ice cream snow and then crowned with whipped cream shone in the brilliant sunlight.
Suddenly, a humpback whale with her calf broke the water in front of us. Everyone on the observation deck scrambled to the front windows for a better view. It was difficult to describe the majesty of the huge creatures as they played. The captain turned the ship to follow the whales for fifteen to twenty minutes giving us an incredible experience. We would see them blow water into the air and then see their flukes wave into the air. Twice they jumped up out of the water to show us their awesome bodies. I wondered how such gigantic creatures could be so graceful as they danced through the water and into the air. What a memorable show they gave us.
When that display was over, someone spotted a seal on a flat iceberg with his tail protruding from behind a large block of ice. Two gentoo penguins were perched to his left. Later, we observed more solitary seals on their private icebergs.
Another production excited us as our ship followed another humpback whale with her calf for at least forty-five minutes. Again, the captain slowly followed them as they zigzagged across the water. Krill must have been near the surface since they skimmed the water giving us amazing views of their immense backs. They were not as playful as the first pair and never waved or showed us their flukes. Experiencing the beauty of the animals, mountains, water, and icebergs was sensational. While we followed the whales, there was total silence until a whale spouted or surfaced, and then excited murmurs were heard from the passengers.
As we went around a huge, glacier covered peninsula, we spotted four crabeater seals lounging on a semicircular iceberg. While the captain circled, we observed blood on the side of one seal and bloody marks on the ice from the prey that he had caught. Three of the four slid into the water just above the bright blue ice which was just below the surface. It was like they had their own pool carved into the iceberg.
Our peaceful day was changed during dinner when the ship started rocking in the waves. Swells continued moving the ship up and down so our trip as we lurched from side to side while trying to walk to our room. It was time for Dramamine and rest in bed to settle my stomach. As the ship rocked, I just remembered the incredible day that we had experienced.